EXPLORING CAMPUS LANDMARKS

Follow staff writer JR Herman along her written, historical tour of campus throughout the ages. Campus has been both updated and restored over time due to aging and disasters, and there are layers to its history. Keep reading about your favourite places to visit on your family vacation to Colonial Williamsburg or the most common backgrounds for graduation photos.

Many of us, at one time or another, have been faced with the task of explaining the history of the College of William and Mary’s buildings during visits from friends and family. Because of this, having an understanding of campus history is beneficial — none of us want to awkwardly search Wikipedia for what many would assume is campus “common knowledge.” The College’s history is, of course, also fascinating in its own right — though, admittedly, it can also at times be overwhelming. So, for those who are either too afraid to ask, too busy to research themselves, or just want the SparkNotes version, I compiled a list of what I believe to be the most important historical tidbits on campus landmarks. To compile these brief histories, I utilised multiple sources, including Encyclopedia Britannica for information regarding early Virginia history, the College’s website, Tribe Trek, and Earl Gregg Swem Library’s Digital Archives, for information specific to the College.

The Sir Christopher Wren Building is the campus’s most iconic building, and there is a reason why — not only is it the oldest continuously used academic building in the United States, but it’s also the oldest surviving academic building. When construction of the Wren Building began in 1695, Virginia’s capital was Jamestown; Williamsburg technically did not even exist. The area known as Williamsburg today was founded in 1632, but was known only as “Middle Plantation” until 1699. That year, “Middle Plantation” became the new capital of Virginia and was rebranded as Williamsburg. It is hard to imagine that when the Wren Building was first built, Colonial Williamsburg as we imagine it today did not yet exist. 

In 1695, there were no merchant shops, apprentice buildings or inns in Middle Plantation. Buildings were far and few between — even the Governor’s Palace didn’t exist yet. Construction on the Governor’s Palace didn’t begin until almost a decade later. Instead, the Wren Building, the largest building in the area at the time, served as the government’s headquarters for several years. Sadly, like many buildings in Williamsburg, it suffered from several fires, with the first occurring in 1705, just five years after construction finished. Devastating fires also occurred in 1859 and 1862. Luckily, however, the Wren Building was rebuilt and restored to its original likeness following these tragedies. 

Interestingly, from its creation until 1931, the building was known only as “the College.” It gets its modern name from the presumed architect. Under the Wren Chapel lies the crypt, the burial place of the royal governor Norborne Berkeley, Sir John Randolph and members of his family, most notably his son, Peyton Randolph, first president of the Continental Congress, as well as other well-known Virginians. The underground steam tunnels are forbidden for students to enter due to safety concerns, but they allegedly connect to the crypts. A number of rumours have circulated throughout the decades about both the purpose of the tunnels and students’ attempts to explore them. Some claim the passageways were used by members of secret societies, while others suggest they were used by fraternity members to enter the crypt and steal bones.

The Brafferton, built in 1723, is the College’s second-oldest building and sits immediately adjacent to the Wren Building on Old Campus. It originally housed the Indian School outlined in the College’s charter. Native American students learned English, math, writing and Christian doctrine. The Indian School closed by the Revolutionary War. Of all three original buildings on campus, the Brafferton was the only one not to fall victim to fire — though much of the building was torn apart for firewood during the Civil war. During the 1930 restoration of Colonial Williamsburg, the Brafferton was rebuilt. While the Indian School was originally intended as a tool to obtain Native American allies and convert Native Americans to Christianity, the Brafferton has recently undergone an important spiritual transformation. Spearheaded by the Brafferton Legacy Group, the goal is to recognise the Indian School’s past and legacy. Cherokee, Pamunkey and Chickahominy alumni of the College, as well as Native American archaeologists, took part in the excavation and rededication of the Brafferton from 2011 to 2013. A blessing of the ground led by these Native American alumni honoured the former students of the Indian School. The building currently houses the offices of the College President Katherine Rowe and College Provost Peggy Agouris.

The President’s House is the first college president’s house in the United States, and it has been home to all but one of the College’s 28 presidents. Construction began in 1732, and the President’s House played a role in the Revolutionary War. The British forced the College’s president to leave in order to set up British headquarters in the building. Later in the war, the President’s House burned down, with the remaining parts of it used as a makeshift hospital for French allies wounded at Yorktown. Over the decades, the President’s House was rebuilt, but it was damaged by several other fires. In 1931, as part of the Rockefeller restoration, it was restored to its current state, though further renovations have taken place since to modernise the house with modern comforts like air conditioning. College presidents have hosted a wide range of famous individuals, including six presidents (Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Tyler, Wilson and Eisenhower), as well as the Marquis de Lafayette (the famous French general who partook in the American Revolution), Winston Churchill, Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Philip and Prince Charles.

The bronze statue of Lord Botetourt can be found in the Wren Courtyard in front of the Wren Building and beside the President’s House. Lord Botetourt, or Norborne Berkeley, was governor of Virginia from 1768 to 1770. His original statue was displayed at the Capitol but was eventually purchased by the College and displayed in the College Yard, until its removal and relocation to Earl Gregg Swem Library, due to concerns about possible damage from the elements. The replica statue that today stands in front of the Sir Christopher Wren Building was created by an alumnus of the College and installed in 1993, for the 300-year anniversary of the College’s chartering.

The Sunken Garden, colloquially referred to as the “Sunken Gardens”, was built as a result of President Franklin Roosevelt’s New Deal programs during the Great Depression. Original plans to construct the Sunken Garden were thought to be too expensive, and the plans were delayed until 1935, when a Civilian Conservation Corps camp was assigned to the College.

The Crim Dell Bridge is considered one of the most scenic parts of campus by many, and it serves as a great photography spot. While Crim Dell is technically the name of the pond, over the years the term has merged with that of the bridge. Interestingly, Swem Library was originally planned to be built on the land that now is Crim Dell, but luckily, those plans were shelved.

Lake Matoaka was originally known as Archer's Hope Swamp but was later renamed Lake Matoaka in honour of Pocahontas. For decades, swimming and fishing in the lake were allowed, but concerns about poor water quality from sewage spills and algal blooms closed the lake to such activities in the 1980s. Aquatic animals such as fish, lampreys and turtles can be found there.

Swem opened in 1966 and is the College’s third library. The Wren Building initially housed the original campus library, and the College’s first separate library building stood in what is now Tucker Hall. The current library was named for Earl Gregg Swem, who served as a librarian at the College for decades. One of the Archbishops of Canterbury and Louis XVI both contributed books to the College’s collection in the 1700s.

Additional historical tidbits and fun facts:

Although 1693 was the year the College’s charter was granted by the Crown, plans for the institution go back as far as 1619. The College was the first school in the United States that was established by royal charter. The College is the birthplace of the country’s first fraternity, Phi Beta Kappa. The fraternity set the precedent for Greek life with its use of Greek letters in 1776. The College is also said to be home to the first formal garden in the New World, as well as the first school in the United States to develop an honor code, institute a law school and teach modern languages, all of which first began in 1779. While the College is the country’s second-oldest college after Harvard University, the College claims to be the oldest public university in the United States with the introduction of its law school in 1779. Two other schools, the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and the University of Georgia, also claim to be the first public university in the country. Virginia Commonwealth University, Old Dominion University, and Christopher Newport University all originally began as divisions of the College.

Hopefully, this exploration of the College’s historic buildings helps us both shed light on some of the major events in the College’s history and helps us appreciate campus landmarks amid a chaotic semester.